Zardozi

Zardozi: A Golden Thread Through Time From Mughal Majesty to Modern Indian Bridal Couture

By Team ishwah:

When you run your fingers over the intricate, raised embroidery of a Zardozi lehenga, you’re not just touching a garment—you’re touching centuries of royal grandeur, lost kingdoms, sacred traditions, and the timeless dreams of Indian brides. At ishwah:, we believe in honouring every thread of this extraordinary art form, blending age-old techniques with the modern bride’s vision.

In this feature, we invite you to journey with us through the luminous world of Zardozi embroidery: its fascinating history, painstaking craftsmanship, cultural significance, and why it’s still the most coveted embellishment in Indian bridal couture today.

Ancient Origins and Persian Roots

Zardozi—meaning “gold work” in Persian—dates back over 2,500 years to the ancient courts of Persia, where master craftsmen adorned royal robes and ceremonial drapes with hammered gold threads and precious stones. The art travelled with Persian traders and conquerors to Central Asia, and ultimately to the Indian subcontinent.

The Mughal Zenith

It was the Mughal emperors, especially Akbar the Great in the 16th century, who truly established Zardozi as a royal Indian craft. The Mughal ateliers, staffed by the best Persian and Indian karigars (artisans), used pure gold and silver threads, natural silk, velvet, and pearls to create masterpieces that graced the courts of Agra, Delhi, and Lahore.

Royal Patronage & Flourishing in Indian Kingdoms

With time, Zardozi found enthusiastic patrons among the Nizams of Hyderabad, the Nawabs of Awadh, and the Rajput kings of Rajasthan. Courtly garments, wall hangings, palanquin covers, temple canopies, and even the scabbards of royal swords were transformed with this lavish embroidery.

Colonial Disruption

Zardozi’s fortunes waned under British colonial rule. The influx of machine-made textiles and the economic decline of Indian kingdoms led to a dramatic loss of patronage. By the late 19th century, many master artisans had abandoned the craft, and Zardozi was teetering on the edge of extinction.

Revival in Independent India

After independence, India experienced a cultural awakening that embraced indigenous arts. Cities like Lucknow, Bareilly, Varanasi and Hyderabad became new hubs for Zardozi, and the craft was painstakingly revived. Notably, in 2013, Lucknow Zardozi was awarded the GI (Geographical Indication) tag, protecting its legacy and empowering the artisan communities who had kept the tradition alive.

The Art of Zardozi: Tools, Techniques, and Magic

The process begins with drawing intricate patterns onto the fabric. The artisan stretches the fabric tightly over a wooden frame, then skilfully embroiders using:

Gold and Silver Wires (Badla and Kalabattu): Once made with real precious metals, now often created using gilded copper or synthetic fibres for accessibility.

Threads: Silk, cotton or metallic threads.

Additions: Pearls, beads, sequins, precious stones and gota (metallic ribbon).

Techniques

The karigar uses a hooked needle (Aari) or a long needle (soi) to couch and stitch the metallic threads onto the fabric, often layering the work for a richly textured, three-dimensional effect. Each motif—be it a paisley, lotus, peacock or geometric jaali—can take several days to complete.

Zardozi in Contemporary Bridal Fashion

In recent years, Indian brides are not just seeking beauty—they want meaning, heritage and personal expression in their wedding ensemble. Zardozi, with its royal legacy and unmistakable lustre, fits perfectly into this vision.

Trends at ishwah:

Beyond Red & Gold

Brides now choose blush, ivory, mint, pista green, lilac and even deep blue, letting Zardozi shine against unconventional palettes.

Minimalist Opulence

Modern silhouettes with delicate Zardozi borders or motifs, ideal for pre-wedding events.

Layered Textures

Combining Zardozi with pearls, aari work, gota patti, or resham threadwork for extra dimension.

Personal Touches

Incorporating family symbols, wedding dates, or special motifs into the embroidery.

At ishwah:, we work directly with master Zardozi artisans whose families have practiced the craft for generations.

“When I start a new border,” says one of our lead karigars, “I think about the bride who will wear it. I put my blessings for her in every motif.”

Our studio is a bridge between worlds—ancient and new, local and global, spiritual and contemporary.

Caring for Your Zardozi Heirloom

· Always dry clean only.

· Store in a muslin cloth, away from direct sunlight, to prevent tarnish.

· Do not iron directly on the embroidery.

· Air out occasionally and refold to avoid creasing at the same spots.

With care, a Zardozi lehenga can be handed down and cherished for generations.

Every ishwah: bridal creation is a love letter to India’s artistic soul. Our Zardozi pieces are not mass-produced—they are curated, designed, and crafted as future heirlooms, blending your story with India’s legacy.

Whether you’re dreaming of a moonlit Tarangini or a regal Ahilya lehenga, ishwah:’s Zardozi embroidery will always reflect authenticity, luxury, and heart.

Sources

Ministry of Textiles, Government of India: Zardozi Embroidery
https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/art-and-culture/zardozi-embroidery-history-mughal-india-7131817/

“A Royal Stitch: The History of Zardozi Embroidery,” The Indian Express, 2021
https://handicrafts.nic.in/zardozi

India Craft House: “The Art of Zardozi Embroidery in India”
https://www.indiacrafthouse.com/blogs/zardozi-embroidery

“Reviving the Lost Art of Zardozi,” Hindustan Times, 2016
https://www.hindustantimes.com/lifestyle/art-culture/reviving-the-lost-art-of-zardozi-101645460245170.html

Geographical Indications Registry: Lucknow Zardozi
https://ipindia.gov.in/writereaddata/Portal/Images/pdf/GI_Application_14.pdf

“How Zardozi Embroidery Is Made,” The Better India, 2022
https://www.thebetterindia.com/284091/zardozi-embroidery-uphandloom-handicrafts-karigars/

Vogue India: “How Indian Brides Are Reinventing Zardozi,” 2023
https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/zardozi-embroidery-indian-bridal-couture-revival